Printing with PETG can be tricky, but once you’ve unlocked the secrets you can enjoy one of the most versatile, durable and gorgeous 3D printing filaments around.
PETG and I have had a checkered past. I’ve loved it…and have also vowed to never print with it again. But once I got my settings perfect, PETG and I have made some wonderful prints together.
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Best Bet: MicroCenter’s Inland PETG is $22 for 1kg and comes in many colors. Translucent PETG is really awesome when turned into a vase!
Recycled Filament: GreenGate is one of the best known makers of recycled filament — this Nat_A_Cyborg’s Slightly Overengineered Vase is printed in a transition spool of Greengate’s recycled Purple Reign.
Why Print with PETG?
- Less brittle than PLA, making it stronger and more durable.
- Resists UV rays from sunlight, so it can be used outside.
- Handles higher temperatures once printed. If you ever wanted to print something for your car or patio, PETG is an excellent choice.
- Easier to recycle.
- Doesn’t need an enclosure — it can print the most basic printer set you’ve got.
- Doesn’t need a special hotend.
- Comes in many colors and variations
Setting your PETG Profile
There are variations between your printer’s set up and the formula of the PETG you’re running, but here’s a good starting point for a typical roll of PETG filament.
- Nozzle Temperature: 230-250 C
- Bed Temperature: 80-100C
- Fan: 50%
- Bed Helper: ALWAYS use glue stick with PETG. It will stick like nobody’s business and tear or break glass and PEI coatings. Glue stick provides a protective barrier.
Do you need a special hotend for PETG?
PETG requires higher heat than easy going PLA, but not so hot you need an all metal hotend. PTFE lined hotends are rated to 260C, so they can safely print PETG at 240C without cooking the plastic liner in a hobby level hotend.
PETG is not abrasive on it’s own and can be printed with an ordinary brass nozzle. If you get PETG with chunky glitter or glow in the dark additives, you will wear down your nozzle faster.