If you’re just getting into 3D printing, you’ve probably run across a lot of strange jargon. Words like slicer, infill, and retraction might sound like something out of a sci-fi novel instead of a fun new hobby. Don’t worry, you don’t need an engineering degree to understand it all. Once you get familiar with a few key terms, you’ll be able to follow tutorials, tweak your prints, and talk shop with other makers.
Here’s a quick glossary of the essential 3D printing terms every beginner should know. Bookmark this page and come back whenever you get stuck!
Slicer & Software Terms
Slicer
A slicer is software that converts your 3D model into G-code. Popular slicers include PrusaSlicer, Cura, and Bambu Studio. Think of it as the translator between your model and your printer.
STL / 3MF
These are the most common file formats for 3D models. An STL file is the old standard and works with almost every slicer. They only save the geometry and are always single color. 3MF files are newer and can hold extra information like colors for pre-painted multicolor prints, materials, and custom printer settings.
Bonus: STL stands for "stereolithography" and 3MF stands for "3D Manufacturing Format"
G-code
This is the “recipe” your 3D printer follows. After slicing, your model gets turned into G-code, a set of instructions that tell your printer exactly where to move, how fast, and at what temperature. G-Code is specific to your exact model of printer.
Layer Height
This is the thickness of each printed layer. A smaller layer height (like 0.1 mm) makes a print smoother and more detailed, while a larger layer height (like 0.3 mm) prints much faster.
Infill
Most 3D prints aren’t solid plastic all the way through. Infill is the pattern inside your print that gives it strength while saving time and filament. You can choose patterns like honeycomb, grid, or gyroid.
Shells / Perimeters / Walls
These are the solid outer layers of your print. The more shells you use, the sturdier your part will be, especially if it’s something functional.
Bed Adhesion (Brim, Raft, Skirt)
Keeping your print stuck to the build plate is key to success.
- A brim is a flat border around your part to help it stick.
- A raft is a thick base under your print, useful for tricky models.
- A skirt is just an outline your printer draws before starting, to prime the nozzle.
"Bed Adhesion" in your slicer refers to these print settings. However, when humans talk about bed adhesion they may be referring to cleaning your plate or using aids like glue stick.
Support
Some models need extra help during printing. Supports are temporary structures that hold up overhangs or bridges. They break away after the print is finished.
Filament
This is the plastic “ink” for your 3D printer. Common types include:
- PLA – easy to use, great for beginners
- PETG – stronger and more flexible
- ABS – durable but tricky to print without an enclosure
Printer Parts & Hardware
Extruder / Hotend
The extruder pushes filament through the printer. The hotend is the heated part that melts the filament before it comes out of the nozzle. Together, they’re the heart of your 3D printer. Most modern printers are now "direct drive" with the extruder and hotend bundled together in one assembly, called the tool head.
Nozzle
The nozzle is the tiny tip where melted filament comes out—usually 0.4 mm wide. You can swap to bigger or smaller nozzles depending on whether you want faster prints or more detail.
Build Platform
Sometimes used interchangeably with "build plate" but refers to the whole assembly that includes the plate and the mechanism that moves it (heaters, springs, carriage, etc.). This also has the heating elements and sometime sensors to aid leveling.
Build Plate
The flat, removable surface prints are built on. Modern build plates are often made of flexible metal coated with special materials to better suit your print needs.
Warping
When prints lift or curl at the edges due to cooling issues.
Axes (X, Y, Z)
The directions your printer moves: left/right, front/back, up/down.
Printer Maintenance
Bed Leveling (Tramming)
Making sure the build plate is the same distance from the nozzle across the entire surface. A properly leveled bed ensures your first layer sticks evenly. We call this "leveling the bed" but the technical term is tramming, though few call it that.
- Manual leveling (tramming): Adjusting screws under the bed until the nozzle has the right gap everywhere.
- Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL): The printer uses sensors to probe the bed and compensate for tiny differences.